Men were obliged to keep an extensive wardrobe and they were expected to dress appropriately. As time went on clothing became less formal and the lounge suit became prominent.
British tailoring was considered to be the best in the world and only the wealthy shopped on Bond Street and Saville Row, which was notorious for great tailoring.
A smoking jacket was the masculine equivalent of the tea gown. Soft fabrics like velvet were used. This was used to help the wearer relax. They were often embellished or frogged.